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Bill Of Materials

  • BOM 3 Wheels RC Platform
  • BOM 3 Wheels Body Style 1
  • BOM 3 Wheels Body Style 2
  • BOM Radio Controlled Willys MB
  • BOM Display Scale 1/6 Willys MB
  • BOM Display Scale 1/8 Willys MB
  • BOM Display Scale 1/10 Willys MB
  • BOM P9RC
  • BOM Willys MBT Trailer
  • BOM F375 Display
  • BOM T&A Ferrari/Vanwall

Build guides

  • 3 Wheels RC Platform Build Guide
  • 3 Wheels RC Body Style 1 Build Guide
  • 3 Wheels RC Body Style 2 Build Guide
  • Willys MB RC Build Guide
  • Willys MB Display Build Guide
  • P9RC Build Guide
  • Willys MBT Trailer Build Guide
  • F375 Display Build Guide
  • T&A: Ferrari/Vanwall Build Guide

Printing notes

  • General Printing Notes
  • 3 Wheels RC Printing notes
  • Willys MB RC Printing notes
  • Willys MB Display Model Printing notes
  • P9RC Printing Notes
  • T&A: FERRARI/VANWALL Printing Notes

FAQ

  • Can you use imperial size screws
  • Prusaslicer Filament Calibration
  • T&A Vintage Racing Fine Tuning
  • Home
  • Docs
  • Build guides
  • T&A: Ferrari/Vanwall Build Guide

T&A: Ferrari/Vanwall Build Guide

Table of Contents
  • Thanks
  • Join our Facebook group
  • Bill of materials
  • Notes
  • Disclaimer
  • Versions
  • Fixes
  • Printer Calibration
  • Chassis
  • Differential
  • Rear Driving Shaft
  • Rear Drivetrain
  • Rear Suspension
  • Front Drivetrain
  • Front Suspension
  • Steering links
  • Steering Servo
  • Electronics
  • Completing the body
  • Support

You have the choice to print the Retro Racer and Super Sport in both the legendary Ferrari 375 F1 1950 or the Vanwall Thin Wall Special.

Ferrari F1 375
Vanwall Thin Wall Special

Thanks #

This Radio Controlled Vintage Race car is by far the best RC I have published. The reason why it’s the best, is because of Trevor Innes’s dedication to make this the best it can be. Trevor spent countless hours figuring how to build this, from the choice of the TT-02 platform to how to incorporate the parts. Figuring out how to improve the drivability. How to print and what material to use to make this the strongest possible so it can be fun to drive for more than 5 minutes.

I also want to thank Paul, Trevor’s friend who contributed to this team effort by exploring some avenues and designing some experimental parts.

The reason we now have such a wonderful RC is because of Trevor and Paul. I implemented there ideas into the design.

Trevor also made possible the use of the Vintage Race Driver figurine at no cost to us by contacting the designer of this wonderful figurine.

Trevor as also put together a Fine Tuning guide that you must read before taking your new RC on the road.

Thank you to William Borrego he is the designer of the original Vintage Race Driver that he gracefully authorized us to use in the RC version. You can visit William’s Cult3D page or his vintage driver figurine

Join our Facebook group #

Best way to get help is to join our Facebook Group where you can ask your questions and share your realizations.

Bill of materials #

The BOM is available here

Notes #

You will need a printer with a bed that can print 220mm on X or Y axis.

This guide is different from my other guides. Since we are using many of the Tamiya parts for which I do not have CAD files, I need to use pictures for the build. Some of them are blurry, my apologies.

before every section where parts of the Tamiya kit is used, I will refer to the official Tamiya Build Documentation and parts number. Do not cut free all the parts of the kit since you will not be able to use the letter/number part number to find them.

When using parts of the Tamiya kit, I recommend you use the Tamiya screws that have bigger threads to screw in the injection molded parts.

Do not overtight screws.

Disclaimer #

This is a fast and heavy RC. It can cause harm if not handle properly. I cannot be held responsible for any injuries that may occur to anyone in the use of this RC.

Versions #

Current Version is 20230129

Fixes #

In this sections, will be listed the available fixes that are not included in the zip archives you may have downloaded.

There is no current fixes for this project.

Printer Calibration #

It is imperative that your printer is well calibrated. The bearing should be a press fit and removed just by pushing on it. It should not drop out or require undue force to install in the “Printer Calibration 5-10-4.stl” part.

You should calibrate your printer for every roll of filament, even for the same brand and color. If you need help to calibrate your printer see this resource: “Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration”

Here’s my procedure when I open a new roll of filament.

Chassis #

If you have a large enough printer, you can print the Frame One Part. You will have to choose between the Ferrari or Vanwall Exhaust

Printed parts required in this step

  • Frame front and Frame Rear OR
  • Frame One Part
  • Ferrari exhaust left and right OR
  • Vanwall Exhaust left and right
  • Vanwall Pipes left and right

The image shows the Ferrari Exhaust. The installation of the Vanwall exhaust is simpler because there is no side tail pipe.

Differential #

Do this step twice.

Reference: Tamiya TT02 documentation step 6

All the parts needed

Insert (G2) Bevel gear (gears facing up) in the bottom of the differential gear case (GB1)

Put the 4x (G3) bevel gear on the (G1) plus shaped part

Insert this assembly in the differential gear case

Fill with grease. Either the Tamiya provided grease or any any PTFE grease

Insert (G2) Bevel Gear (gear facing down) on top

Install Differential top gear (GB4) and use 4x M2-8 Tamiya screw

Install 2x 8-12-3.5mm (BB1) bearing at each end

Rear Driving Shaft #

Reference: Tamiya TT02 documentation step 3

Parts needed

Apply grease on (C5) shaft. Insert a 5-11-4mm bearing (BB2) and (GB3) part
Insert 2x10mm pin (MA7). Make sure you align it with the pin recess in the (MA7) part
Insert 70 teeth spur gear (GB5), 5-10-4mm bearing and bevel gear (GB2). Make sure the pin is inside the gear

Rear Drivetrain #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Rear gear cover
Insert differential. Make sure you put the gear on the proper side.

Insert rear drive shaft

Apply grease

Install Gear Cover (A4). Use 4x Tamiya M3-10mm screw (MA2)

Parts required for motor assembly

Use 2 M3-8mm Tamiya screw (MA4) and attach Motor Mount (D9) to Motor. IMPORTANT : Use screw position #23 like in picture above.

Insert motor in frame. Make sure it sits at the bottom.

Use 2x Tamiya M3-10mm screws (MA2) to attach motor plate from under the frame.

Apply grease

Install Rear Gear Cover with 4x M3-10mm screws

Rear Suspension #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Suspension Upper Bracket Rear
  • Suspension Lower Bracket Rear
Parts required

Install front upper arm bracket (A2) with 2x M3-10 Tamiya screws (MA2)

Make sure the orientation of the upper arms (B17) is like shown in the picture

Apply grease on arm’s shaft and insert both sides in bracket

Push rear suspension bracket on arms.

Use 2x M3-10mm Tamiya screws (MA2)

Flip assembly upside down. Make sure the orientation of the rear lower arms (B1) is like the picture above. Note, the Suspension Lower Bracket has changed since the picture was taken

Apply grease and insert in frame

Attach the lower suspension bracket with 2x M3-10mm screws. Lower suspension bracket has changed since the picture was taken.

Wheel shaft parts required. You will do these steps twice.

Apply grease on Wheel Axle (C3) shaft and insert a 5-10-4mm (BB3) bearing

Slide knuckle over wheel shaft.

Insert a 5-10-4mm (BB3) bearing

Insert 2x10mm pin (MA7)

Insert spigot over the shaft. Make sure the pin is inserted inside the spigot.

Optionally, Print the 6mm Spigot to have a narrower drive or if you want to use the modern wheels and tires
Apply grease and insert Gearbox Joint (C2) in differential gear box on both side.

Apply grease and insert dog bone in gear box joint on both sides

Use M3-22mm Tamiya screw (MB5) to attach top portion of knuckle to upper arm. Make sure the install the knuckle shorter side up. Check Step 20 of Tamiya TT-02 Kit Documentation for further reference. Check orientation of knuckle on next picture to confirm proper orientation.

Apply grease on other end of dog bone and insert in wheel shaft. Do this on both sides

Use M3-22mm Tamiya screw to attach lower portion of knuckle to lower arms. Apply grease on screw. Do this on both sides.
Assemble suspension as shown in step 21 of Tamiya TT-02 Kit Documentation. Optionally, use oil filled shock absorber for Tamiya TT-02.

Install Shock absorber with 4x M3-14 Tamiya Screw (MB4) Use lower hole on upper bracket and upper hole on lower bracket. Are you confused yet?

Front Drivetrain #

Parts required for the next few steps. Assemble the drive shaft by applying grease on the shaft (C5) insert two 5-10x4mm bearings and bevel gear (GB2)

Install steering stop (D15)

Insert and connect the drive shaft with the rear portion

Insert differential. Make sur it is positioned like in the picture

Apply grease and secure the drive shaft bracket (D2) with 2x M3-10mm Tamiya screws (MA2)

Secure Differential Cover (A4) with 4x M3-10mm Tamiya screws (MA2)

Front Suspension #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Suspension Upper Bracket Front
  • Suspension Lower Bracket Front
Parts required

Insert the ball joint (P7) into the Upper Front Arm (B13). Do this twice

Like this.

Use 2x M3-10 Tamiya screws (MA2) to secure upper arm bracket (A2)

Place the arms in this position. You will notice that your part has a steering stop. You need to remove it otherwise it will interfere with the body. Use cutters to snip it off. Make sure you remove the top portion. Leave the bottom intact. This is why you have to position the parts as in the picture above.

Apply grease on both pins and insert in the Upper arm Bracket installed in the previous step.

Push Upper Front Suspension Bracket onto arms

Use 2x M3-10 Tamiya screw (MA2) to secure printed Upper Front Suspension Bracket

Flip chassis upside down and position Lower Front arm B14 like on the picture. You also have to insert ball joint (P7) in the arm.
Apply grease on both pins of lower arm and push into place. Push the lower suspension bracket on arms.

Secure lower suspension bracket with two M3-10 screws

Apply grease on drive shaft (C3) and install 5-10-4mm (BB3) bearing.

Insert front knuckle (A1)

Insert second 5-10-4mm (BB3) bearing

Insert 2x10mm pin

Insert drive spigot (D14) and push so pin sits inside the recess.

Optionally, use the Drive Spigot 6mm printed for a narrower drive or if you plan to use the Modern Wheels and Tires. Repeat the previous steps to assemble the second front drive shaft.

Apply grease on gear box shaft (C2) and insert in differential. Do this on both sides

Insert spacer (A8). This is to go on the arm that will located towards the lower arms.

Put plastic spacer (A10) over M3-10 Tamiya Hex Screw Head (MB2)

Flip the chassis upside down and screw the knuckle from under the lower arm. Make sure the drive link attachment are towards the middle of car. Repeat on the other side. Refer to Tamiya TT-02 Kit Documentation Step 18 for a global image of the whole front setup.

Grease bot end of dog bones and put into place.

Flip chassis back to normal position. Insert Conical spacer (A6) over M3-10 Tamiya Hex Shape Screw (MB2) and secure top portion of knuckle.

Make sure the orientation is as shown. Also look at the removed steering stop on the top.

Front view.

Same as you did for the back, install Shock absorber with 4x M3-14 Tamiya Screw (MB4) Use lower hole on upper bracket and upper hole on lower bracket.

Steering links #

You will need a 3mm threaded rod and the Traxxas Rod End set. You will need to cut the 3mm to length to get the proper drive links

Insert the ball joints inside the rod end and screw them on the 3mm threaded rod. Here are the total length of each link: 1x 40.75mm. 2x 42mm and 1x 51mm.

use 1x M3-20mm screw to attach The Tamiya steering component (A3) to steering links 42mm and 51mm

Do the same with another M3-20mm screw the steering component (A3) and a 42mm steering link. Note the orientation of every parts is critical.

Next step will require part (A5) and 2x M3-14mm Tamiya Screws (MB4).

Apply grease on shaft of (MB4) screw’s shaft to attach the (A5) part to the previous assembly. Use an M3-15 Tamiya screw to attach the 40.75mm steering link to middle part of (A5)

Next step will require 2x washers (MB6) and 2x M3-18mm Tamiya screw (MB3)

Position washers (MB6) on steering post of chassis.

Use 2x M3-18mm Tamiya Screws (MB3) to attach whole steering assembly to chassis. Apply grease on shaft. Finally use 2x M3-15mm Tamiya screws to attach to closer screw holes of steering knuckle (A1)

Steering Servo #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Vertical Servo Mount
Parts required for next step. Vertical Servo Mount, Servo motor and 4x M3-10 screws

Insert servo and use 4x M3-10 screws

Position servo assembly and secure in place with 2x M3-10 screws

Flip chassis upside down and use 3x M3-10 screws to secure Servo assembly

Use 1x M3-10 screw to attach steering link to servo arm

Electronics #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Battery clip
Battery clip and 2x50mm pinĀ­. Alternatively, you can use a piece of 1.75mm printing filament

Insert 2x50mm pin in first portion of battery clip mount.

Put battery clip and push pin in place

Insert Tamiya 4200 battery, fish the battery wires inside the steering servo mount bracket

Connect motor, the battery and shove the ESC and Transmitter in place. You can double side tape the switch to the servo motor.

Completing the body #

Printed parts required in this step

  • Body Front
  • Body Back
  • Body Driver
  • Body Hood
  • Dashboard
  • Driver
  • Gas Cap
  • 2x Mirror
Assemble the Body Front and Body Back
Assemble middle clip on body portion
Clip the middle body portion in place

To insert the tires on the rim, you might need a press, a vise or a wood clamp. You may wish to apply a bead of glue on the rim to prevent the tire from turning on the wheel. Install the Vintage Wheels and tires or,
The modern Wheels and tires

Congratulations your T&A Vintage Racing Ferrari/Vanwall RC is completed.

Before you take it outside, you must read Trevor’s Fine Tuning guide

Have fun!

Support #

Making these builds are time consuming and costly. If you like my builds, please consider buying me a coffee, it encourages me to continue making quality designs. Click on the coffee cup on the right bottom corner or visit the Show Your Support Page. Thank you, it is truly appreciated!

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Updated on January 31, 2023
F375 Display Build Guide
Table of Contents
  • Thanks
  • Join our Facebook group
  • Bill of materials
  • Notes
  • Disclaimer
  • Versions
  • Fixes
  • Printer Calibration
  • Chassis
  • Differential
  • Rear Driving Shaft
  • Rear Drivetrain
  • Rear Suspension
  • Front Drivetrain
  • Front Suspension
  • Steering links
  • Steering Servo
  • Electronics
  • Completing the body
  • Support
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